DIY Console Table

I’d like to start out by saying I first set out to dupe this console table from Burke Decor but somewhere along the line my plans changed and I made the executive decision to scale back my ambitious dream of recreating the aforementioned Matthes Table and go with something much, much easier.

Below is the design I came up with instead. Easy, peasy!

For the wood I ended up using (4) 2 in. x 4 in. x 96 in. Prime Whitewood Stud’s from Home Depot.

I first began by making all of my cuts ensuring each piece lined up as close to perfect as possible. Once all of the cuts were complete I lugged all of the wood inside my house to do a “dry-fit” and ensure all of the pieces matched up. If I wasn’t so worried about sawdust getting everywhere I would have cut everything in my house. (Texas heat is no joke! Seriously, the a/c is my best friend this time of year.) Immediately afterwards I lugged the wood outside and began sanding every inch like a mad woman. After battling the intense heat and an angry swarm of gnats for what seemed like an eternity I eventually emerged victoriously with my smooth wood and once again basked in the gloriousness of my a/c before I began the next step.

One sleep later I woke up refreshed and ready to tackle my console table project. Nervously, I started drilling in all of my pocket holes while praying to the high heavens that I wouldn’t mess up my already cut boards. After that step was completed it was now time to drill my countersink holes at the top of each table leg. To make it easier on myself I created a template out of left over poster board to ensure all of the holes I had to drill matched up and were spaced evenly. While binging many episodes of Sexy Beasts on Netflix I started screwing all of my boards together.

With just 2 episodes left in the series I decided to call it a night and as gracefully as I could dragged my console table across the house to place it where it’s new home would eventually be. I wish I could say at this point I was finished with my project but atlas, I had pocket holes to fill with hole plugs and wood glue. Since this was the first time I’ve ever drilled pocket holes mistakes were definitely made and I could tell that a lot of sanding would be in my future.

The next morning I awoke bright eyed and bushy tailed ready to tackle my project. I began by mixing some sawdust with wood glue and filled in the counter sink holes I drilled to connect the top and sides together. Hours later I dragged my console table outside and gave it a good sanding (I was so in the zone at the point I managed to forget to take photos of this step). After a quick wipe down with a microfiber towel it was time to stain. I found this stain sitting on a shelf in my garage all lonely and didn’t notice that the actual stain kind of separated into a watery consistency that made it apply much lighter in color than it actually was. This actually worked out to my surprise and I absolutely loved the color. Once all of the coats of stain were fully applied and had an adequate amount of time to dry I sealed it with a clear wax base that I picked up at Walmart.

All that was left to do now was lug it back into my house and decorate it.

Keep your eyes peeled – I have 3 Christmas themed DIY’s in the works. (Did I ever mention the Christmas is one of my absolute favorite holidays?)

Easy Upcycled Rustic Box

Last weekend I wanted to complete a DIY that was simple, stress-free, cheap and not too complicated. That’s when it hit me – I had some leftover stained skewers from a previous project and a empty box that was calling my name to transform into a decorative piece I could use on my hallway table. When everything was finished this project ended up costing me a whopping total of $0.00 which is a complete success in my book.

I began by measuring the length and width of my box and used a pair of needle nose pliers to snip each skewer to size. Once all my skewers were cut I started hot gluing them to the top of the box until I reached the end.

Not satisfied with how wonky and uneven the pieces were looking, I took the box out to my garage and sanded down the edges until everything lined up perfectly. I then hot glued 2 pieces to the sides of my freshly sanded box lid.

Now it was time to start working on the sides of the box lid. I ended up testing two ways to do it until I was satisfied with the finished look. At first I thought it would be easy to start from the bottom and work my way up but I did not like how it turned out so I ripped off the hot glued skewers and decided to start framing out the sides of the box lid first. This way looked 10x nicer.

I then began cutting my skewers to length ensuring to sand them down after each cut to avoid the look of jagged edges before hot gluing them onto the lid. Once completed with all 4 sides I put the lid back on the box and repeated this process on the bottom of the box.

For the final step I took some wood filler and gently pressed it into any of the gaps that were visible. Before it was fully dried I used my finger to remove any visible chunks of it that showed between the lines of the skewers. After it was completed I set it on my hallway table and styled it to my liking.

Once the price of wood comes down I plan on duping this $800.00 console table to use in my hallway. Stay tuned as I know it will be interesting trying to figure out how to do it.

Relaxing until next weekend,

DIY: Pottery Barn Dupe – Amate Framed Print

I’ve been searching for months for the perfect neutral artwork to go above my bed. After countless hours of scrolling and pinning various options to a secret Pinterest board I finally stumbled on something that was exactly what I envisioned.. the only problem; its price! Whew! Who in their right mind would spend close to $700.00 on one piece of artwork no matter how stunning it is? Not me! Once the sticker shock wore off I set on a mission to recreate a similar dupe for a price my pocketbook (and bank account) would be pleased with.

To help you get started, here is a list of the items I used:

*This post contains some affiliate links. That means that if you make a purchase after clicking on a link I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

When I was first brainstorming up ideas to recreate the artwork I had my mind set on buying an already assembled frame but after comparing prices from various stores the cost always came to roughly $50.00 per frame (with coupons). Not wanting to spend an arm and a leg I had the idea to use a painters canvas and just remove the canvas part. Each canvas ended up costing me 1/5 of the price of one pre-assembled canvas which is a definite win-win in my book. To start the project I began by putting on my favorite playlist on Spotify and cutting the canvas away from the frame. Once finished I brought it out to my garage and sawed off the middle supporting brace (don’t worry this will not mess with the structural integrity of the canvas).

The canvas I bought ended up being much bigger than I anticipated so I ended up cutting it down to the exact dimensions I wanted my artwork to be and then I simply stapled the pieces back together once I triple checked that everything lined up and was perfectly square.

After assembling the frame I began to trace the inside dimensions of it onto my MDF board then brought it out to my garage to cut it and dry fit it to ensure my measurements were perfect. You might be wondering what that homely looking taped piece of cardboard is doing sitting next to my project. Well, when I first attempted to dupe this artwork I somehow thought it would be cheaper and easier if I just used some cardboard boxes that I had lying around my house as a backing element. This was a huge fail and the artwork turned out looking wonky and down right embarrassing. It looked like an elementary school craft fair threw up in my bedroom and instant regret set in once I had it hung. Not one to be defeated by a project I brainstormed ideas to make it sturdier and am so glad I redid the whole thing.

I then removed the MDF board from the frame and placed the tabs that came with the canvas on just the bottom slots. Once completed I brought it into my garage and began to stain it. At first the color was way too dark so I lightened it up by applying some classic gray over it. This was the prefect combination and gave the frame some lovely depth and dimension.

While my stain was drying I decided to start working on the backing of my artwork. I grabbed my trusty iron and began removing all of the wrinkles (this step is very, very important as it will look unfinished if the fabric is not crisp and wrinkle-free). I then placed it on my floor, laid my MDF on top of it and began hot gluing it onto the MDF. When you’re doing this make sure to pull the fabric as taut as possible so there will be no visible wrinkling or rippling on the fabric once its flipped over. I also went around all the edges with a generous amount of packaging tape to secure the loose strings of the fraying fabric.

I then flipped my MDF board over and inspected the canvas fabric to make sure it was pulled tight enough over it to ensure there would be no sagging. Once satisfied, I laid my amate paper on top of it and began measuring the border around it making sure it was even on all 4 sides. I then whipped out my hot glue gun and went to town. If any of the paper starts to pop up in some areas simply dab a dot of hot glue behind it and gently press it down with your finger. After going through what felt like a million glue sticks it was time to put my MDF board into my frame. This part was so easy all I had to do was place it over the opening and gently tap it in with my hand. Due to the cut being a perfect fit it will not be going anywhere or magically fall out from the frame. The final step of the project was to drill on the sawtooth hangers and hang my completed artwork above my bed.

Dreaming up more projects to create,

DIY: Easy Entryway Bench

After my shoe storage transformation project the other side of my entryway was missing something and I couldn’t quite put my finger on it until it dawned on me that the empty space along the wall would be the perfect place to put a bench. I wanted to make something that was quick and cheap and boy did I meet my goals when it came to this project. Everything came together and was finished in under a day.

To help you get started, here is a list of the supplies you will need:

*This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you make a purchase after clicking on a link I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

I first started out by measuring my 2×6 and cutting it down to my desired length. For my bench to fit perfectly in the area I envisioned it in I ended up cutting two pieces of wood 29 inches long.

Next I began to measure where I wanted the legs of my bench to be screwed in to the wood and made marks with a pencil to ensure they lined up correctly.

After I completed measuring everything and triple-checking that everything would line up perfectly I began to screw in the legs and the flat brackets to give the bench some more support.

Once the bench passed a rigorous quality inspection from the Su”purr”visor it was time to bring it in the garage and begin staining it. To get in between the crack of the bench I used a thin paint brush and it worked wonderfully.

Now was time for the final step of this easy-peasy project – adding the brass edge guards to each corner. This step took less than 3 minutes and elevated the look of the bench tremendously. Is it weird that I’m already planning a huge art project to hang above this bench?

More to come,

DIY: French Door Curtain

Where to begin – while I absolutely love this door in my dining room and the light that it lets in, I have to admit when I’m trying to watch TV it shines through the glass with the force of a thousand angry suns and illuminates the whole room. Not wanting to have to don my finest sunglasses while lounging on the sofa to keep from being blinded I set out with the idea that I could make a curtain for free with items I already had around my house. After 4 hours of hard work and a few music breaks here and there, my curtain was finally complete and the sun was no longer my mortal enemy.

I first began by taking measurements of the window opening. Then I set on a quest to find the perfect neutral fabric from my scrap pile.

Once I found the fabric I wanted to use (Canvas drop cloth to the rescue!) I spread it out on my dining room floor and began marking where I needed to cut it. I ended up going with 76 inches long by 24 inches wide to account for my seam allowance.

Ok ya’ll when I say I used my favorite scissors in the entire world to cut the fabric I am not exaggerating. I found these at Aldi and they were under $10.00. I’m confident that if anyone were to ever break into my house I’d grab them to use for self defense they are that sharp and a huge plus is they glide through fabric like butter. I then grabbed my iron and went to town annihilating each and every visible wrinkle. This step probably took a solid 10 minutes to complete (or at least it felt like it). Being too lazy to measure an inch all the way around the sides of my fabric I came to the realization that I had a paint stirrer stick in my garage that fit those exact dimensions so I used it as a guide to mark where I’d need to fold my seams.

I’m currently in a feud with my sewing machine’s bobbin so I decided to go with something that wouldn’t make me want to rip my hair out and scream profanities every 5 minutes while trying to troubleshooting the issue. That’s where my beloved iron on hem adhesive comes in to play. This stuff is magic and I’m glad that I remembered there was some leftover in my crafting closet. I pinned the adhesive between the fabric creating a sharp seam and then began to iron for what felt like longer than 10 minutes this time.

Now was time for the fun part – looking for scrap wood that I could use to hang the curtain and make some sort of dowel with to give it some weight at the bottom. I settled on a piece of scrap lattice wood strip and cut it to size. I then placed one piece at the bottom of my curtain and once again pinned down my trusty iron on hem adhesive.

I folded the bottom of my fabric over the cut lattice wood strip like a burrito and ironed the hem adhesive secure. I then grabbed the other piece of wood I cut and stained the outer sides of it (in the haste of fighting my cat that was chewing on the iron cord I did not get a picture of this step)

Next I placed the stained lattice board towards the backside of the top of the curtain, applied a generous amount of E6000 on it and rolled the fabric over like a burrito again (can you tell I’m hungry as I type this?). Something about this curtain was looking too plain to me so I searched through my craft closet for anything I could use that would give it a little pizzazz. That’s when I spotted it – a bronzed square brad that would be the perfect addition to the ends of the wood that were sticking out from the curtain. I adhered one on each side with E6000 and then began the next step of my curtain project.

Now I was nearing the finish line and all I had left to do was create some straps to hold my curtain in place during the times I actually wanted the light to shine through the window. I cut two 30 inch long strips that were each 2 inches wide, sandwiched some hem adhesive between them, pinned them down and then once again ironed them closed.

After all of the ironing was finished I added some Velcro to each end of the straps. It was at this point of the DIY where I started getting squirrely and thought it would be a good idea to also use Velcro to adhere the curtain to my door – it was not. It looked good for about 15 minutes then came crashing down onto the floor with one of the loudest bangs I’ve heard in my entire life.

To make sure that my curtain wasn’t going anywhere I screwed it into the door. That in itself was a difficult task that took some Macgyvering. Have you tried drilling through a metal door while balancing on a kitchen chair for dear life? Some heart palpitations were had and many Hail Mary’s were thrown in the process.

If anyone needs me I’ll be binge watching Prodigal Son (Are you as heartbroken as I am that it was cancelled?) in the dark while occasionally glancing back at my finished curtain with the biggest smile on my face

Thrift Flip: Basic Metal Wreath to Boho Mirror Transformation

Ladies and Gentlemen, if I do say so myself – this right here had to of been one of the easiest DIY projects I’ve done in a long, long time. So easy in fact that I did the majority of it while laying in bed. (Yes, you read that right! My DIY obsessed self was fighting a stomach bug and yet that couldn’t even stop me from working on a project. That just goes to show how obsessed I am with keeping busy and letting my creative side run wild)

If you’d like to make something similar, here is a list of the supplies you will need:

*This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you make a purchase after clicking on a link I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

First I began by cutting the raffia paper ribbon into different lengths. I’m not all about perfection and didn’t want it to look too uniform once it was added. I then grabbed groups of three strands at a time and began looping them through the wreath base.

Many hours and re-runs of Psych later it was time to add the mirror. To begin I took out my trusty E6000 and applied a generous amount to the back of the wreath then lowered the mirror onto it as gently as I could.

It was at this time when I realized that I’d need something heavy to weigh it down with so I grabbed the closest thing to me which just so happened to be a box filled with my spoiled cats many toys. The whole time it was drying she’d walk by while giving me the side-eye and silently looking like she wanted to kill me for disturbing her prized possessions.

Once the E6000 was fully dried I used a heavy duty picture hanger to hang the mirror on the wall and “fluffed” the raffia over it to disguise the unsightly gold color that was poking out.

Logging off until next time,